A Leopard at Dawn – Notes from a Yala Safari

The jeep was parked beneath a cluster of palu (Ceylon Iron Wood) trees at the edge of a rocky outcrop in Yala’s Block One and the morning was still almost completely dark. Our guide, Priyantha, had cut the engine twenty minutes earlier and was watching a gap in the scrub with the focused patience of […]
The World’s Most Scenic Train Ride – Sri Lanka’s Kandy to Ella Journey

There are train journeys and then there is the Kandy to Ella train. Winding through the central highlands of Sri Lanka over the course of six to seven unhurried hours, this ride regularly tops lists of the world’s great rail experiences, and having taken it dozens of times with guests from every corner of the […]
The Road to Sigiriya – Why Sri Lanka’s Ancient Rock Fortress Should Be on Every Traveller’s List

It rises from the flat jungle like a declaration, a 200-metre column of red granite crowned with the ruins of a 5th-century palace, surrounded by water gardens, moats and parkland that were once among the most sophisticated urban landscapes in the ancient world. Sigiriya is Sri Lanka’s most iconic landmark and arriving at its base […]